Di Petsa SS26

Threads

Sep 20

First Thoughts: Di Petsa & the Archaeology of Self

The self is an archaeological site, Di Petsa reminds us this season. We have to dig and excavate, revel in the memories. The self is a collection of memories bonded by sand, water, and clay.

Presented in a cocoon of metal and concrete at the Town Hall by Bottaccio for London Fashion Week, this collection is an ode to all of those things: to the excavating, but also the returning. After all, a memory is also an archaeological site one keeps returning to, dipping toes (or wings) in mud. Water always returns, but it is never the same wave.

The Praise

The brand’s commitment to inclusivity also returns to shore this season. Not as a buzzword or marketing-driven afterthought, but as a sacred tenet sewn directly into the garments from day one; these are clothes clearly made with different body types in mind.

The Presentation

Flawless and engaging, incredibly well-curated thanks to Petsa’s attention to detail and knack for performance and immersive storytelling.

The Issue

There was however, something missing from this collection that gave me pause. A piece of the ancient mosaic that could have made it all the more memorable. The mannerisms are on point, the overall collection tells a story. There’s theatricality, and all the signature Di Petsa elements: today’s goddess seeking self-pleasure, ancient meets modern. It’s Charli XCX on a pilgrimage to Ancient Greece.

It works for the most part, but feels somewhat diluted. Perhaps an attempt to satiate too many disparate appetites: those who want spectacle, versus those who want to see wearable pieces. One might worry whether it is all playing too safe: holding onto what already works so well to try out something more radical, new. New textures, new fabrics. If some pieces stood out, others ended up seeming to simply fill in the gaps.

The Conclusion

Mention ‘wetlook’ and most people will know what and who you’re referring to. Maybe that’s the weight of bearing a signature rooted in mud and water. For Petsa, the biggest and most ironic challenge is to stay liquid. To ride the same wave that’s never the same wave. To keep flowing, remaining true to her vision while also honouring curiosity and the desire to depart from what no longer serves. Luckily, she doesn’t lack the talent and inventiveness to succeed, nor the time to be able to do so.