Onalaja AW26

VAGUE presents Onalaja AW26 as seen by James Olusegun

If Onalaja AW26 Is to Be Believed, Sometimes All That Glitters Actually Is Gold

Kanyinsola Onalaja has always worked with the confidence of someone who understands that fashion is art before it is commerce. At her Autumn/Winter 2026 presentation for Onalaja during London Fashion Week, that instinct was dialled up to full voltage. The room shimmered with surfaces that caught the light much the same way jewellery does. Beads, mesh, embroidery, fringe — clothes that refuse to be silenced.

But what struck me first was the unapologetic richness of it all. In an economic climate where many emerging voices are preaching restraint, Onalaja leans the opposite way. Her dresses arrive densely worked, almost celebratory in their ornament. Sheer beaded gowns move like water while fringed skirts flicker with movement at every step. The effect is maximalist, yes, but also incredibly disciplined with embellishment inspired by the Yoruba kolo of her people, drawing the eye across the body just as the traditional scars map the lineage of its wearers.

Born in Nigeria and educated across Europe, she approaches design through a layered cultural lens. Traditional adornment, textile craft and ceremonial dress appear as undercurrents as she absconds the literal referencing prized by many of her peers. The silhouettes are contemporary, but the surfaces carry the memory of her culture. And this has paid off handsomely in recent years as celebrities from Chloe Bailey to Jennifer Hudson have gravitated toward the label for her precision in balancing presence and meaning, not to mention her dedication to inclusivity. Producing collections that run from XXS to 4XL, Onalaja remains committed to ensuring glamour does not belong solely to a narrow body ideal.

This philosophy is what gives the brand its real charge. The AW26 collection may glitter with beads and colour, but sometimes the most radical gesture a designer can make is refusing to dim the lights.

credits

words — karina so.

filmmaking — james olusegun

design — karina so.

media production — VAGUE